Munich - Old Town

The Karlstor entrance to Munich's "Old-Town"

Munich’s name is derived from a band of monks who settled the area around thirteen-hundred years ago. The settlement (“Zu den Munchen") officially became a town in the 12th century and was ruled by the Wittelsbach’s (electors, dukes and eventually kings) until 1918, a period of nearly 800 years. Be sure to tour their palace, the Residenz, which we describe below.

Oktoberfest is Munich's claim to  beer-drinking fame and  runs for several weeks in late September and early October. The celebration is held at Theresienwiesen  (southwest of the Hauptbanhof) underneath a tent capable of accommodating thousands.  Beer is sold by the Maß, a one-liter tankard. The dates for 2008 will be September 20th to October 5th.  In 2009 Oktoberfest will run from September 19th to October 4th.  For detailed information see this site.

Attractions – Old Town

If you want to walk Munich’s Old Town, consider the path described below.

The Hauptbahnhof (central train station) is a meeting point for the transportation network and a central point in the traveler’s Munich. Start your tour here or at the next stop east (Karlplatz). Find your way to the surface at Neuhauser straße and proceed to the east (away from the Hauptbahnhof) along this pedestrian-only cobblestone street.

The Old Town begins at the Karlstor , site of a historic gateway to the “Old” Town . Neuhauserstraße, the first street-segment ahead leads directly to Kaufingerstraße. Both streets are renowned for shopping, although Bavarian food and beer are in ample supply along these scenic lanes. If you are lucky enough to visit in summer or autumn, the buildings will be adorned with some stunning displays of geraniums.

The first highlight of walking  Neuhauserstraße is the Bürgersaal Kirche at number 48.  Dating form the late 18th century, the building includes both an upper an lower church.  The frescos are outstanding, as are several of the sculptures.

A couple of blocks down, on your left, at Ettstraße you will encounter  the notable Saint Michael's-kirche,   which features one of the most attractive and balanced interiors that you will find in Munich's churches. Saint Michael's has an impressive entrance, but is known for its barrel-vaulted nave, reputed to be the second largest next to Saint Peter's in Rome. (The barrel vaulting was originally larger, but destroyed when the tower of the church collapsed in the late 16th century.)   The Crypt of St. Michael's-kirche holds the remains of many famous Bavarian's, most notably, those of  Ludwig II, the Bavarian king known for his compulsion to build castles, such as Schloss Neuschwanstein near Fussen.

Across the street you will find the Augustinerbräu , Munich's oldest brewery (established in the late 13th century). although it was relocated in this location in the 18th century.  The Restaurant Augustiner is a good place for some fine beer and hearty Bavarian food.

Further to the east, at Augustinerstraße, you will find the Deutsches Jagd-Und Fischereimuseum   - just look for the large bronze boar and catfish and you are there.  In case you had not guessed, this is the German Hunting and Fishing Museum. (By the way, if you do not read German, use the Google Translate function to convert the website text).  The building is the former Augustinian Church (14th century with later additions, including some notable Baroque features).  If you are interested in hunting and fishing you fill find the displays fascinating, but children may find some of them frightening.

Continue down Augustinerstraße to explore the Frauen-kirche , Munich’s impressive Cathedral, which dates from the 15th century. The Frauen-kirche is really a bruiser. Its brick walls and bell towers reach for the sky (over 325 ft.) and their lack of any buttresses or external supports give the feeling of majesty and a sharp, almost disorienting ascent as one looks towards the top of this imposing church. The Frauen-kirche was badly damaged in World War II and the restoration effort was completed only in the mid-1990s.

Although the church’s signature twin onion-domed, brick towers (complete with clocks) provide instant identification, they were not part of the original design. It appears that they were a happy accident of history, as the town could not afford to build the original design.  The rest of the Frauen-kirche, however, is as understated as the church’s plain brick exterior.  The interior is stark white and sparsely decorated. The church houses the crypts of many member of the Wittelsbach family who played an important role in German history for over 600 years. The crypt is behind and underneath the altar. Louis IV,  who was Holy Roman Emperor, apparently rated better accommodations than the other Wittelsbachs and is buried in an impressive, ornate tomb just behind the gates and  to the right after you enter the church.

The Frauen-kirche has many notable treasures, but the sculptures of the apostles and prophets by Erasmus Grasser, dating from the early 16th century are especially notable.  The Church's altar by Ignaz Günther is one of his most famous works, while Jan Polack's painting The Protecting Cloak (in a chapel behind the main altar) is regarded as a  masterpiece by many.

Many visitors to the Frauen-kirche are attracted by the “Devil’s Footprint” which can be seen “burned” into the floor in front of the first wrought iron gate that separates the entry from the church proper. There is a fuzzy-appearing black footprint (somewhat small) with a distinct claw at the heel.  The “fabled footprint” (shown below) has an interesting story.  It goes like this:

The devil did not want yet another church in Munich.  He endeavored to convince  the builder to make it  so dark and gloomy inside the edifice that no one would visit. He checked on the builder’s progress from the  entry where the footprint can now be seen.   From that specific point, the church's columns obscure all windows (at the time, there was a large artwork that blocked the windows behind the altar) and the Devil thought the church was so unappealing, that no one would visit.  Of course, the devil had been mislead by his arrogance and the wit of the builder.  When he found out that he had been tricked, he returned and stomped his foot in anger making the impression in the floor. In addition, he turned himself into a gale-force wind and tried to blow the church down.  Although unsuccessful then, to this day, wind continues to  swirl around the towers of the Frauen-kirche.

Finally, if it is a clear day, you might consider climbing the stairs (fee) to the Church's observation tower for an impressive view of Munich and its surroundings.

If you need information about another travel destination, try Googling our site or the Web

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