The
Rock of Cashel is a spectacular collection of medieval
religious buildings on a hilltop
above the town of Cashel in County Tipperary.
Originally
the hill was
used as a fortress serving the Kings of Munster (County Tipperary
was a part of Munster Province), but the early buildings did not survive the
Norman invasion. Later the property was transferred to the Catholic Church
and the buildings that mark the apex of the hill highlight one of the most
remarkable historic sites in Ireland.
According to legend, St. Patrick baptized King Aenghus
here in the 5th century,
making him Ireland's first Catholic ruler. One interesting
detail about the baptism of King Aenghus was that
St. Patrick banged his crozier on the floor to emphasize the
solemnity of the occasion, but, in the process, accidentally thrust its
sharpened bottom through the foot of
the king. The king thought this painful experience was a required part
of the conversion ceremony and did not mention it until afterwards, to the
great
embarrassment of the future saint.
Brian Boru was
crowned King of Ireland on the Rock in the early 11th century. In the
12th century, the Rock of Cashel was given to the Church and
construction began on the religious settlement we can see today. While the
history of the Rock of Cashel is interesting, it is the nature of the
ruins that sets the magical spell of this fortified rock outcrop.
Although the site is composed of collapsed buildings and incomplete walls,
these ancient stones tell the story of a settlement that was both
majestic and important in its day.
The Hall of the Vicars Choral, dating from the 15th century, is
where you will enter the Rock of Cashel. The cathedral, now roofless,
was originally constructed in the 13th century and later restored after a fire. The cathedral dominates the hill and its square tower
adds an appealing ruggedness to the structure. Cormac's Chapel, built
in the early 12th, was a gift from the Cormac McCarthy, the rival clan to
the O'Briens, who had given the Rock to the church. The Round Tower
(12th century), approximately 92 ft tall, is another of Ireland's collection
of tall, round towers always associated with a religious complex.
Finally, the cemetery with its collection of Celtic Crosses, often called
High Crosses, is a good place to wander and soak in the solemnity of the
Rock of Cashel. As seems to be common thread in Ireland's
history, the complex was
destroyed by Cromwell's army in the 17th century.
Guided tours are available, complemented by a museum and interpretative
center. A new visitor centre is in the planning, as the present one
has trouble keeping up with the crowds in summer. See
Heritage Ireland for information on
opening times and visiting the Rock of Cashel.
At the foot of the Rock
of Cashel you will find the Brú Ború National Cultural Centre, which promotes
traditional Irish music, song and dance. The group presents nightly
performances and has toured venues around the world. For more
information, see this
website presented by the Cashel Chamber of
Trade and Tourism.
Jerpoint Abbey in County Kilkenny (12 miles (20.1 km) from the town of Kilkenny)
is a 12th century Cistercian abbey known for its excellent stone carvings.
Although the tower and cloister date from the 15th century, the mix of abbey
architecture combines to produce a beautiful scene. Be sure to see the
sculptured arcade in the cloister, as it contains outstanding stone carvings
(note the carvings on the piers supporting the arches). The abbey was
closed in 1540 and acquired by James, Earl of Ormond.
The site has a modest visitor center and guided tours are available. See
the
Heritage Ireland website
for details on opening hours, fees and access to Jerpoint Abbey.
There are a few interesting attractions in Waterford, but the vast majority of
tourists visit to tour the Waterford Crystal factory on Kilbarry Street. If you
are interested in finding out about other attractions in Waterford (they are
modest in number and scope), visit the official
tourism website for the city.
The Waterford Crystal tour lasts about an hour and is available in several
languages (if you prefer a language other than English reserve ahead to schedule
your preference). The tour starts with a film, followed by presentations
of glass blowing, cutting, inspection, sculpting and engraving. Reservations
are necessary for groups of nine or more. There is a
restaurant on site (Gatchells) that serves light meals. For detailed information on the
price and availability of tours, see the official
Waterford Crystal website.
On your way to or from Waterford, consider stopping at Duncannon Fort in
Duncannon, County Wexford. The well-preserved, star-shaped, 16th Century
fort occupies a commanding a position at a choke point along
the eastern bank of Waterford Harbour. The fort was built to help protect Waterford Harbour from pirates and
a possible attack by the Spanish Armada.
The site's lighthouse was a later addition to the fort and is reputed to be one
of the oldest of its kind in Ireland.
There had been a
Norman fort in this location, which is believed to have been preceded by a
fortification built by the Vikings. The Fort, which has a relatively deep, dry
moat, rebuffed several attacks (including one by Cromwell's forces) but was
ultimately laid low during the Irish Revolution when it was set afire.
It
was restored during World War II when it was rebuilt to defend Waterford Harbor
from possible attack by the Axis powers Germany and Italy, even though Ireland was a neutral
country during World War II.
The dawning of the Age of
Gunpowder doomed castles and other forts made of stone that simply could not stand-up
to cannon fire. Instead, the replacements for these fortifications, like
Duncannon fort, were somewhat squat, had thicker walls and were built of brick (which did not shatter as did
stone). In addition, the walls joined at unusual angles allowing those
defending to fire at the opposition from a variety of locations (rather than
from the inside of a box-like shape).
The Duncannon Fort is open from June to September, from 10 am to 5:30 pm.
Guided tours are available several times a day.
The town of Duncannon is a modest village, but is surrounded by good quality
beaches. In addition, the town benefits from it location along the scenic Hook Peninsula,
which forms the eastern boundary of Waterford Harbour. If you are
interested, more information about the Hook Peninsula, the official
website of the Hook Tourist Office can be found
here.
Located in the middle of Cahir on a rock island in the River Suir, the
impressive, well-preserved Cahir Castle dates from the 13th century, although
additions have been made over time. Major changes occurred during the 15th
century when the Butler family enlarged the castle to cover the entire island.
See Cahir Tourism's
official site for
information on opening hours and contact information.
While in Cahir, be sure to the Swiss Cottage, about a mile south of
town.
The residence is a delightful "Cottage Orne" dating from the early 19th century.
"Cottage Orne" is a term applied to country houses built using wood and thatch
to create an artificial, rustic look. Attributed to the architect John
Nash, the Swiss Cottage was refurbished late last century and is gorgeous
inside. See
Heritage Ireland
or
Cahir Tourism for more information on
visiting this delightful residence.
Kilkenny City is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in all of Ireland.
It offers numerous historic buildings, a fine castle and a vibrant art and
crafts community (don't miss the National Crafts Gallery in the Castle). Be
sure to see Kilkenny Castle, the Black Abbey, the Thosel (a market), the Rothe
House, and Saint Canice's Cathedral that features an adjacent round tower.
Visit the website of
Kilkenny City for a detailed look at the
city's attractions. If you are interested in arts and crafts, check out
the County Kilkenny official tourism site for more details on the highly
regarded
Kilkenny Arts Festival that is held every summer.
If you have an interest in gardens and are traveling in Ireland's Southeast,
consider stopping at
Johnstown Castle or
Lismore Castle.
Johnstown Castle
(sometimes called Johnston Castle) is a delightful early 19th century castle
surrounded by exquisite Although the Castle is closed , the gardens
are open to the public and well worth a look.
Three lakes form the center of the gardens and the landscaped grounds are quite
pleasant. See this site for
more information
and this
site for some excellent photos of the
gardens. In addition, Johnstown Castle features the Irish Agricultural Museum, if you are
interested in seeing its collection of horticultural tools and implements.
Lismore Castle
, offers historic gardens that are
worth a look (the castle is a residence not open to the public). Consisting of an Upper (17th century) walled Garden and
an informal Lower Garden
(19th century), the property is very attractive. In fact, when the Duke
of Devonshire and his family are not in residence, you can rent the castle for
your entourage - presuming you have lots of disposable income. Touring the
gardens is much less expensive and can be done from the middle of March until
late September.
See the Lismore Castle
official website for more detailed
information.
Offshore of Kilmore Quay, a small
fishing village south of Wexford, are the Saltee Islands, one of Ireland's most
famous bird sanctuaries. A wide variety of birds can be spotted here including
puffins, cormorants and guillemots. The islands also are home to a population of
Grey Seals.
Beaches
The Southeast of Ireland features some of the country's best beaches and warmest
waters. It is, as you might suspect, a very popular area in the summer and
a favored vacation spot for the Irish. We mention this only to point out
that the roads hugging the coast and the coastal towns themselves can be very
crowded during August.
